It's all about the Base

     So, I've been looking at other soaper's blogs and YouTube videos for advice and help with some techniques that I wanted to try and I noticed that so many of their recipes contain palm oil.  Personally, I have never used it. There is nothing wrong with palm oil and I hear that it produces a nice lather, but it is sometimes not sustainably sourced and, well, I like to do my little part in reducing my carbon footprint as well as living and buying naturally.  But, I also noticed the plethora of other oils being used out there, so I decided to research and order a few.  I'm so excited with what I found and I just HAD to share!

     Oils are the "base" of your soap and each of them serves a different purpose.  Some are standard base oils or butters, some are considered carrier oils (good for "carrying" fragrance) and some are luxury oils.  Luxury oils tend to not only be more luxurious, but often more expensive as well. Some oils/butters even fall into more than one category.  They are generally categorized as soft, hard or brittle.  Soft oils are what we generally think of as oil.  Quite simply put, they are liquid oils like olive oil.  Hard oils are "scoop-able" oils, somewhat solid like coconut oil or mango butter.  Brittle oils are very solid  and don't melt easily like cocoa butter or beeswax. All oils or butters will impact either texture, lather, color etc or a combination depending on the percentage of each oil or combination. With the exception of Castile Soap, generally, soap is not made with just one base oil.  Castile Soap, which originated in Spain (thus the name), is made with olive oil and no other oils. Although, single oil soap is not unheard of, usually, you need a combination of oils or the soap might be too soft, too harsh or have other issues.  As fabulous as coconut oil is for the skin, too much of it can also be drying. So it's a good idea to balance it with some other oils. Some oils are also more comedogenic (pore clogging) than others, so high percentages of them shouldn't be added to soaps meant for your face.  
     In a previous post I listed some of the benefits of the oils and butters I have used in Kimsoapia Kreations.  Now let me share my new findings for some of the newest additions!  Look for these new goodies in the upcoming Spring and Summer Kreations. 

• Neem oil - The Neem tree is native to India and other parts of Asia and was once called "The one capable of curing every illness and ailment"  The oil is extracted from the fruits and seeds of the tree.  It is antibacterial, anti fungal, insecticidal, moisturizing and soothing.  It has been used to treat wounds, acne, psoriasis and other skin ailments.  It is very often used in Ayurvedic practice.  It has a strong smell, so only a little is needed in soaps, unless of course the soap's main purpose is as an insect repellent.

Neem Tree

• Rice Bran oil - Believe it or not, this oil is extracted from the outer husk of rice!  It is deeply hydrating, anti aging and very mild making it a good choice for delicate, sensitive skin.
• Castor oil - I bet this conjures up unpleasant medicinal images/memories from your childhood.  But as a soaping oil, there is nothing unpleasant about it.  The high concentration of unsaturated fats in the castor bean provide a wonderful creamy lather and are considered therapeutic as well as anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.  

Tamanu fruit

Tamanu fruit

• Tamanu oil - I have been on a hunt for Dilo oil, which in Fiji and other parts of the South Pacific is considered a miracle oil.  But I can never find it by itself.  I've found lots of products with it, but never pure Dilo oil.  Well, that is because Dilo is the name only used in Fiji.  The more common name is Tamanu oil.  It is also called Kamani oil in Hawaii and Ball Nut oil in Australia.  Because it has powerful wound healing and skin regenerating properties it was once used to treat sores from leprosy.  It is excellent for a large variety of skin ailments as it is antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.  I am so excited to start using this luxury oil!

• ​Hemp seed oil - Hemp seed oil comes from a variety of the Cannabis Sativa plant, but relax, this variety does not contain significant amounts of the pyschoactive elements of the Cannabis Plant.  The oil of the seed contains a balance of Omega 3, Omega 6 and medicinal gamma linolenic acids (a fatty substance found in plant seed oils that is used to treat skin conditions).  It is reported to be soothing, moisturizing, healing and strengthening.  When used in soap, it helps create a creamy lather. 
• Kukui Nut oil-  I first happened upon this oil in an organic hair product I bought and fell in love with.   Being the constant learner that I am, I decided to research this oil because it was very new to me and sounded exotic and Hawaiian.  It turns out the Kukui or Candle Nut Tree is Hawaii's State tree and the source of  Kukui nut oil.  The nut itself, must be roasted if it is to be eaten. Leis, bracelets, necklaces and anklets are sometimes made of kukui nuts.  In ancient times, the oil was used to light lamps and a kukui nut lei was used to show social status. The oil which is cold pressed from the raw nut, can be directly applied to skin (or hair), it easily penetrates leaving a protective barrier which in turn leaves the skin or hair smooth and silky.  This is definitely a luxury oil. 

• Beeswax - Falling under the brittle category is beeswax.  Beeswax is the substance formed as bees naturally make their honeycomb homes. Just as it protects the bees living within, it protects your skin when used in soaps and lotion bars. Just a little bit is needed as it also has thickening properties in these products. I personally don't care for it in body butters because they become too "hard" and I prefer a lighter spreading body butter.  However, it is frequently used by many others, including major cosmetic companies. It seals in moisture and seals out toxins and is loaded with Vitamin A.

     Well, that about covers it for the new base oils I'll be adding in the future. If you are interested in beginning a hobby "kreating" your own soaps, there are many tutorials available all over the internet.  Meanwhile, here is a handy take-away I found at Soapqueen.com which lists some attributes of common soaping oils to get your "kreative" juices flowing.  And, please check back soon for upcoming "how-tos" from Kimsoapia Kreations.